It’s Raining Men: What has historically been known as women’s fashion month from early September to early October has in the last few years become home to some of the most forward-thinking menswear collections.
Without a dedicated men’s week comparable to its European counterparts, New York has become a hub for experimental gender play.
Christian Siriano, whose runway is one of the city’s best examples in terms of body inclusivity, added male models to the lineup for his 15th anniversary show, dressing them in corsets and frothy tutus as an homage to the ballet.
New York also saw Alejandro Gómez Palomo of Palomo Spain and Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kassell, CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund nominees behind Tanner Fletcher, continue to champion queer aesthetics with retro-inspired collections brimming with pastel colors, lace accents and floral prints.
Meanwhile, designer Willy Chavarria upped the theatrics for his show inside the city’s historic Woolworth building. Turning the machismo of Chicano culture on its head, Chavarria sent sequin-embellished suits and a trio of evening capes down the grand staircase as part of what he dubbed an “eleganza-extravaganza.”
Christian Cowan, though based in New York, brought his signature camp aesthetic to Paris, telling WWD’s Paris bureau chief the city “has always been synonymous with true creativity and mastering your craft,” Such whacky looks he paraded on guys include the cutout halterneck and pouffy white miniskirt shown here.
Also in the French capital, Demna returned to his hardcore antics after a rather tame Balenciaga collection in the fall. “It all felt visceral, edgy, and in-your-face,” wrote WWD’s international editor Miles Socha of this season’s mammoth tailoring, four-sleeve bomber jackets and slightly tattered siren gowns. Partial to mixed casting, Demna’s nearest and dearest modeled, including his husband, Loik Gomez, who wore a bridal gown for the finale.
Meanwhile, Dutch designer Duran Lantik pilfered the Balenciaga archive for deadstock material to upcycle for his padded separates, which generated much hype online this fashion month. His “models were swimming, perhaps,” teased WWD general assignment editor Rhonda Richford, “with life jackets turned into parkas, or buoys as bikini tops.”
Cutting-edge labels such as Chopova Lowena, GCDS, and Natasha Zinko also showed off toned male physiques with playful transparencies, cropped lengths and underwear.
